I used a hot wire foam cutter on the two levels of the hillock upon which the fort will be mounted. It has been the first real use of this cutter that I bought a number of years ago. It is a simple affair powered by two "D" cell batteries. But it makes a fairly neat cut and is much, much, much better than a serrated bladed steak knife.
Here you can see the wall construction from the rear. A piece of foamcore and a piece of pink foam were glued together to form the wall and parapet. Circular floors have been glued into the tops of the towers. The gate is a simple archway cut from foamcore. It will eventually have doors.
Illustration of method used to secure the walls and towers. For the walls, toothpicks were cut and inserted into the base and then the walls were pressed down on them. With the holes in the bottoms of the walls slightly enlarged, the walls can be easily removed and replaced. For the towers, I used toothpicks as internal braces to keep the towers in place.
This was done to illustrate the breeching of a wall after artillery fire. I will add rubble to both the interior and exterior of each wall section.
I also cut two extra towers down to be used as damaged replacements. On the left-hand damaged tower you can see the toothpick brace inside the tower. There are two more that help hold the tower in place.
I mounted the fort hillock on a slightly larger hill section, painted both with brown interior latex paint, and applied sand to give it some texture. This picture shows the fort base prior to the excess sand being shaken off.
And here are the intact wall sections after I primed and then sprayed them with Rust-Oleum brand American Accents Stone spray paint. Unfortunately I have had this can for a long time and I could never get the mixing ball to work properly so the paint came out in blobs and in pure propellant, resulting in incomplete coverage. I think this evening I will respray the walls with sand colored Krylon brand Ultra-Flat Camouflage paint. I also spray painted the plastic Yoplait containers, first with black Krylon brand Fusion paint and then with the sand camouflage paint. I must not have waited long enough for the black Fusion paint to try and that coupled with the high humidity here resulted in the sand colored second coat to exhibit a number of cracks. But that effect looked very good, adding some "authenticity" to the towers so I'll leave them alone. I didn't get pictures of them taken yet but will have them featured in Part 2.
I still have to complete the damaged wall sections and make a doorway for the entry before Saturday's first play test of this scenario. Then I'll have three weeks before the next play test to finished the fort and get the terrain work completed. Part 2 will come shortly with more pictures of the completed project.
I still have to complete the damaged wall sections and make a doorway for the entry before Saturday's first play test of this scenario. Then I'll have three weeks before the next play test to finished the fort and get the terrain work completed. Part 2 will come shortly with more pictures of the completed project.
Thank you very much for this easy-to-follow tutorial . . . and this will be a very useful and versatile piece of terrain.
ReplyDeleteIf I might add a couple of notes . . .
The hot-wire cutters do do a great job . . . but they should be used outside because of the fumes from the melting foam . . . and, of course, that is easily done because you don't need to plug it in.
The second is that when I built a fort years ago, I used spackle on my foamcore for texture . . . and it worked great when I drybrushed over it . . . although I'm not sure how well it would do on the curved towers . . . still it is another option that others might try.
I really like what you're making here, this will look great and be used for years to come. I believe that I might just have to copy your design.
-- Jeff
Jeff,
ReplyDeleteI did use the cutter outside as I was very much aware from previous hobby postings of the danger from the fumes. I have used a spackle, white glue, and sand mixture on other structures and hills before but wanted to try this stone spray paint since I got it in sale several years back. I think I may have waited too long to start using it though. But the fort will be OK for this first battle and I have three weeks to get all the errors corrected.
Jim
I was going to say that this provided a germ of an idea for a castle I'm planning ... using plaster around large tin cans ...
ReplyDeletebut then I saw that word verification program was "sperm" ...
Anyway, I'm going to have to invest some spray paints anyway ...
:)
A
Wow! I really like your idea. I've never built anything like this, but your detailed instructions and picture certainly instill confidence. Thanks...
ReplyDeleteIt's shaping up quite nicely! One of the good things about a project like this is those "happy accidents" just add to the character of the piece. :-)
ReplyDeleteI thought of another "warning" for those who want to emulate you lovely project.
ReplyDeleteThe propellant in some spray paints will "melt" styrofoam. To be safe, protectively coat exposed styrofoam (such as the open edges of foamcore) with white glue or paint before spraying.
-- Jeff
Jeff (and others),
ReplyDeleteI coated all the exposed styrofoam (and even the paper sides of the foamcore) with acrylic matte medium primer. This was one project that I didn't want to take any chances with the spray propellant melting the foam.
Jim